Friday, July 25, 2008

A Day In The Life

How about a story about my day? Because it’s been a long one! It started like any other. I went to work early and taught my class. At noontime however Katarina and Claire (the two German girls I live and work with) show up at the site in the back of this safari combi-truck. That day was Katarina’s birthday and the locals that we work with found out. So there was quite a day ahead of us. We climbed in the back of this flatbed and drive for about 30 minutes over dirt roads with dust flying in our faces. About 10 women had begun to prepare this big traditional Namibian lunch for us. Because it was Kata’s birthday, she had the honor of killing the two chickens we would have to eat. Claire and I then had to help prepare the chickens for her, which includes draining the blood and plucking them. On an unrelated note, I am now a vegetarian. How does one kill a chicken you ask? Well it’s a very simple process. *WARNING* First you grab the chicken by the neck. Then you swing it in a circle three times over your head to get momentum (feel free to skip ahead at this point) and finally, on the fourth swing you abruptly change directions and effectively snap the chickens neck. After the first chicken, poor Kata could not do the rest and went to find a quiet spot to throw up. That spot, which we dubbed the Erbrechen Corner (Erbrechen is German for Vomit) would be visited by all three of us throughout the day, no less that 3 times each. We then had to participate in three different tribal dances while the rest of the meal was prepared and then personally thank all the cooks by accepting each part of the meal from one of them by giving the ‘Namibian Handshake’ with two hand while simultaneously bowing and then putting our fist over our heart and saying “Damkie”. (It is pronounced damm-gee and it means ‘thank you’). Everything is piled into a bowl and you eat it with your middle finger, index finger, and thumb on your right hand. In Namibia, almost all foods are starch based because they need their meals to be filling. Our meal included the following: Omutete (a heavy and thick spinach), Carrots and Cabbage Salad, Oshingali (a yellow, soupy porridge), Oshifima (a thick pap-like gray paste), Oxuxwa (the chicken we had ‘prepared’ earlier), rice, and to drink we had a local brew called Oshilcundu. That can best be described as chunky, sour, fermented milk with sand in it. Some of the food was actually quite good, but other parts not so much. However, the piece de resistance was dessert (a.k.a. the last taste you will have in your mouth in a while). The local delicacy: Omaungu. Omaungu is a local bug that is about the size and thickness of your thumb, green and black, and is a cross between a worm and a caterpillar. We were each given a bowl of 10.
After our unique meal we were then invited to play the drums with a couple of Rastafarian men named Bogo and Jerry. That lasted about an hour and, in case you were wondering, I am terrible at the drums. Then we headed back in the combi only to get a flat tire on the way home. Who are the only two people who know how to change a tire? Myself and a man named Marus; who has a broken leg. That took another 45 minutes. When we get back to our house, Elka (the crazy German woman we live with) is in a ‘lovers quarrel’ with her boyfriend who is 30 years younger than her and she is throwing brown sherry bottles at him. We quickly decide to leave and move onto our next plan which was to take Kata out for a birthday dinner at a local restaurant. The dinner party included Kata, Claire, myself, and 4 of our German friends that we either live with or know, Annd, Eva, Kirsten, and Sebastian. It was a good meal and a very nice night out because we met this very old Australian man who talked to us for a while and then left, but not before he had gotten hold of our waitress and paid for all of our dinners and left before we knew. He said he “admired what we did and we deserved a night off” and paid for our dinner!
But the night is not over because luckily Thursday nights are open mic night at Namibia’s only Karaoke Bar. And the only people who take Karaoke more seriously than Namibians, are Germans! I absolutely could not believe the crowd. To add to my surprise, apparently all first-timers have to sing a song before they leave. And they MEAN IT. I was watched the whole time and was prevented from leaving at the end of the night. Therefore, Annd and I had to sing ‘Heartbreaker’ by Pat Benatar. When I was finally done, the DJ took me aside and said it was okay if I came back but he asked me if "I could please not sing there again.” And no I was not offended because Yes I am that bad! When we finally got up the courage to go home, we snuck in thru the garage because the lovers were still at it and went to sleep but that was only after the guard geese attacked our legs…again.
Ironically, I am surprised this is the first time I have had a day like this…

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Dostoevsky

Hello Again!
Sorry it has taken so long to update but time is a funny thing in Africa. It moves so slowly, but it still seems that I don’t have time for anything. And there has been a lot going on. (also I apologize if my English doesn’t make sense but my current dialect includes German, English, Afrikaans, and Oshiwambo). If anything, I may be a little more poetic because this is the only time I can use the English language to its full extent and know that I will still be understood!
It has been quite a couple of weeks! But I thought I would make this entry about what I have experienced with HISA. To be honest, there really is no way to convey what it is like here so I apologize if my thoughts are choppy or jumbled.
My favorite days of the week are Monday and Wednesday because I am at Okahandja Park with my children all day. It requires me to walk about a quarter of a mile through the settlement in the morning because city cabs don’t go as far as where I work. Every morning I must see and walk thru where the children I work with call home. The homes are made out of stolen sheets of tin. The roofs only stay on because they load their trash on them to hold it down. There are no windows or floors and they average the size of 8 feet by 15 feet.
Trash is just thrown on the dirt pathways that wind thru the settlement where there is room and the smell is something that will never leave me. It is not just the smell of dirt, garbage, sewage, and death (because most people are very close to it) but it is a smell of stale desperation and a lack of hope. It is consistently the most humbling 5 minutes of my life. And for those thinking of my safety, I am perfectly safe. Namibia is safe when it is light out and most all of the children and mothers in the settlement recognize me by now (how many 20-year-old white women walk thru an unofficial settlement in southern Africa at 7 in the morning?) and they know where I am going. In the evenings Zoxa (a man I work with) always walks me to a cab). But the women and children make me feel welcome; not afraid. When I get to the soup kitchen I immediately enter the kitchen and help prepare breakfast (pap or bread and powdered milk). The children have already learned that when they arrive they enter the back of the building, grab a small plastic chair and go into the yard where they sit in their class circle and wait for us to come out with breakfast. But despite how miserable the evening before must have been for them, whenever we come out with our tray of food they never fail to start to chant, “Teacher is coming! Teacher is coming!” They eat their food slowly and deliberately because they don’t know when their next one will come but we have to watch them eat it because if we don’t then they will hide it and bring it home to their families instead of eating themselves. Then they put their bowls and spoons in a bucket and I bring it back to the kitchen. Specifically, I work with a group of about 23 children even though there are about 85 in these morning play-groups. Of these 23 kids: 20 are HIV positive, only 13 have a parent, 7 have two parents and 2 bring their infant siblings with them to class. For the next 4 ½ hours we do things like sing, dance, learn and draw to pass the time. I don’t mean to be so abrupt and brutal about the reality here but I feel like if you can try to understand the sorrow of the situation here, you will take even more joy in how happy the kids are when they are with us. Apparently, me trying to do a traditional Zulu Dance with them is just bout the funniest thing in the world. When they draw, all they need is a smile and a thumbs up to be proud and satisfied. They are absolutely starving for physical contact and attention. They always want to be lifted up or hugged or just want to hold your hand. When they don’t call me Teacher they follow me around and call me “Careful-Careful” because it is always what I am saying to them when they play (and Namibians tend to repeat words like: yes, yes or fine, fine). My hair is another point of fascination for them and it fills up my heart when we are mutually ecstatic to see each other every morning. That they have just a few hours where they can be a kid has given me a satisfaction that I have never found before.
With everything that I see I am reminded of one of my favorite quotes as said by Dostoevsky: “There is only one thing that I dread: not to be worthy of my sufferings.” I’ve been giving this a lot of thought lately because there are a lot of different approaches to the situation I find myself in. I have come to the conclusion that there are two different ways to deal with the current reality. To feel nothing or to feel everything. But I’m beginning to think that both ways are right depending on the person. Fortunately and unfortunately for me, I tend to feel everything. This makes my job very tolling emotionally. But my experience here so far has helped me understand that I wouldn’t want it any other way. It makes sense to not think about it and to work and know that you are helping. You can get lost trying to find reason in the way something’s are or in the way things work out; or don’t. And the sad fact of the matter is that they can’t be compared. It literally is two different worlds. You could go crazy trying to rationalize it all and it’s a very depressing business. If anything, there is some comfort in the fact that these kids know nothing else and can’t understand the gravity of the situation. But I think there is something to feeling it all. Even if its just so that these kids are felt for. That someone knows and feels what they’re going thru. And on a selfish level, one of the benefits of this type of work is your own ever increasing sense of a persons self worth. It does keep me up most nights worrying about…everything. But it also makes me appreciate even more the close bond I’ve formed with three of the girls I live with. I may cry a little hard every once and a while but I laugh even harder, and more often. Time moves very slowly here giving me plenty of time to dwell on the injustice of it all. But it also gives time to enjoy a good book and an exotic cup of tea and even better and more diverse company. On some cosmic level, the more pain and experience we let ourselves have will eventually bring more joy into our lives. Even if its just the appreciation of joy itself; for anyone. Maybe just to be worthy of our suffering is enough. To be equal to it. To not just cope with it, but to understand it for ALL that it is. To be worthy of what life gives us. Maybe that’s what this is all about.
Rant too long? Am I reaching or babbling too much? Oh well! I guess I’ve become a poet in my old age? My next post will be sooner and (luckily for those who might still be reading) a little shorter and less heavy!
Thanks for reading!
~Melissa

Friday, July 18, 2008

My Week's Schedule

Accommodations:
I am currently living in a German Hostel just outside of Windhoek. There are about 8 people here including the German couple that owns the house. The people here can speak English but usually don’t (who could blame them they don’t need to!). I work with two very nice German girls: Claire and Kataria. The couple that owns the place is…unique. The woman is a very kind, chain smoking, eccentric with bright red hair and a tunic. The husband is a big built man with bleach blond dread locks for hair and every day, with out fail, he wears a khaki colored long sleeve button down shirt with brown leather hide shorts that could be mistaken as a speedo…and hiking boots. But they are very kind and sincere and you have to admire the type of people that march to the beat of their own drum. So I like them very much. (Plus they gave me a great deal on the price!) And the things I was greeted with at this German Hostel? 20 snakes (it is also a snake farm) 100 snake eggs, 3 violent and aggressive geese that quack at all hours of the day and night and will attack you if you get too close, 1 needy black cat that I am allergic to, 1 room in the garage because they were out if space in their house, 1 bucket to use for the bathroom at night, 1 bucket to heat my water in for the shower in the morning (don't get those two buckets confused!), 1 bed and mosquito net, 1 oil lamp, 1 lock box to put all my stuff in, and 1 pillow and blanket.
Monday:
6:00 am:
wake up and fill a bucket of water from a well that I will then boil outside and use for my shower. Then get dressed and ready. Breakfast? Hot Tea and Toast
7:00 am: leave or work at the soup kitchen in Okahandja Park.
8 am – 1pm: working with kids in a playgroup/daycare. Ages 2-8
1 pm – 2 pm: Lunch (either toast soup or pap with hot tea)
2 pm - 5pm: Homework group and rape, HIV/AIDS, and family counseling
5 pm – bed: Keep myself occupied with a book or I go into the city. Dark at 6:00 pm and must be indoors.
Tuesday:
6:00 am: wake up and fill a bucket of water from a well that I will then boil outside and use for my shower. Then get dressed and ready. Breakfast? Hot Tea and Toast
7:00 am: Leave for work at the Bridging school.
8 am-10:30 am: Teach classes in English and math at a third and fourth grade level.
10:30 am – 11:30 am: Serve/eat lunch. Hot tea and toast
11:30 am-1:30: teach at the Bridging school. Sports. Gardening.
1:30pm – 5:30: Keep myself occupied with a book or I go into the city. Dark at 6:00 pm and must be indoors
6 pm – 7:30: Kickboxing classes at this random German mans backyard who apparently was a world champion.
8 pm – Bed: Keep myself occupied with a book or something.
Wednesday:
Same as Monday
Thursday:
Same as Tuesday
Friday:
Same as Tuesday and Thursday but without the kickboxing.
Saturday and Sunday:
Work at the soup kitchen at 2 pm but otherwise on my own.
Monday:
Start again

Hope Initiatives Southern Africa (H.I.S.A.)

I am currently here in Namibia living and volunteering with Hope Initiatives Southern Africa.  H.I.S.A. is and NGO (non-governmental organization) that works with the poorest of the poor in the unofficial settlements outside of Windhoek, Namibia in southern Africa. HISA works mainly with children and the youth, but has support groups for adults as well. It all began when a woman named Patricia (who grew up in southern Africa) came to Namibia after studying in London for 10 years and saw the horrifying quality of life in Namibia. Specifically, she was struck by how many unattended and sick children there were in the settlements. She decided to do all she could to improve the lives of Namibia’s forgotten people. Renting a tin shack in Okahandja Park (one of these settlements) she cooked soup at 2 pm and offered it to local children. The first day there were 15 kids, the second day there were 40 and the third there were 70 children! Patricia quickly decided that she needed to make taking care of these kids and tending to the community her life's mission. When her husband John arrived, he took the children under the shade of a tree and started to teach them. The couple did this for quite some time until a woman from an NGO in Germany (Germany had colonized Namibia, so it is still involved in the now-free nation) called “Hand in Hand” saw what Patricia and John were doing for these displaced children and decided to help. She brought in the money that they needed and built a proper soup kitchen with a small working kitchen, an attached classroom, and a small dirt yard for the children to play in.

5 years later, Hope Initiatives Southern Africa has come a long way from that small tin soup kitchen to what it is today, and it has gotten there on the wings of a woman’s vision, dedicated volunteers, and the unmatched kindness of our countless donors.

Right now, HISA has three different sites in these unofficial settlements. One site is the site of HISA’s Bridging School at Ombili Okalindi #5 in Kilimanjaro Park. The name of this school is the perfect for what we do there. The Bridging School takes in the cases, troubles, and children that no one else will. We do not charge them anything and we give them two meals a day. For almost all of these children, the food we give them is the only food the will get all day, and even though we do our best, we cannot give them a lot. Our meals are usually beans or pasta or pap (a white, starchy, paste that is meant to be very filling). In the morning they get a bowl for breakfast before class and then a bowl before they leave in the afternoon. What the Bridging School seeks to do is take the children of the settlement who have never been to school (local street children, kids orphaned from AIDS, kids that can’t afford it or are taking care of their own children, etc.) and we teach them up to a 4th grade level and then get them scholarships to continue their education in a better school or to learn a trade. Like the name suggests, our school is literally a bridge for these children into a future that they would never have otherwise. The ages of the children here run from 9 to 16 and they come to us with no idea of how to read or write. Some children just live outside the gate because they don’t have homes. We teach English, Math, Ethics and family, PE, and Gardening.

The second site that HISA operates is the original soup kitchen that Patricia had started. This soup kitchen is still in conjunction with the German NGO but HISA runs it and provides for it. We begin before 8 in the morning and we average working with about 85 children a day. We have formed ‘playgroups’ that meet all morning until 1:00 pm and basically supervise the kids and give them a place to go instead of wandering around on their own or staying in their poor and often abusive homes. We do as much as we can with the children. We teach them basic skills, and English, and we sing and dance and play and just do whatever else allows them to be kids, even if it is only for a morning. In the afternoon, just like in the beginning, at 2:00 pm we operate our soup kitchen to any children who need it (we average about 100 kids). The children that come to the soup kitchen are from ages 2 to 10. In the afternoon, we offer a “homework group” for older kids that are either locals or students at the Bridging School. As well as counseling for women with HIV/AIDS or TB as well as victims of rape and classes that seek to strengthen the structure of the family and home.

The final site that is part of HISA is possible because of the fundraising done at Denison University and the grace of a private donor from Italy. Thanks to the money the Denison chapter of HISA raised, HISA was able to purchase land in the third unofficial settlement outside of Windhoek; Babylon Park. They were also able to afford fresh water pipes and separate sewage pipes to the site to provide for the future building and with the money from the Italian donor, we will be able to build a second soup kitchen that will be entirely HISA’s. We hop to complete this project by October.

It is a very exciting time to be involved with Hope Initiatives Southern Africa and we only intend to grow more!

Common Sense Manual for your first week in Namibia.

If you haven’t spoken to my family, I’ll sum up my first week here as a consistently horrifying panic attack. I had a very hard time adjusting and really being on my own for the first time in a third world country. I have now burst into semi-unprovoked and spontaneous tears 4 times: The first was when I got detailed e-mails on how to survive from my brothers, the second was after seeing the devastation of the site I would be working at, the third was when I heard that my grandfather was flipping out because I was here flipping out and my mother hadn't come to get me yet, and the most recent was when I finally got a chance to check my e-mail and the second thing in the inbox was a special offer at Ruth Chris Steak House. But I digress.
When I wasn’t adjusting, I was learning some quick tips for getting around/living on your own in Namibia. First, NEVER be by yourself after dark. Especially if you are a woman. If you are on your own during the day, walk like you know everything and have been thru everything. A few getting around tips if you are not walking: taxi’s anywhere in the city during the day are 7.50 rand (less than a US dollar), the two times taxi’s are allowed to charge you double are when you get a taxi after 10:00 pm or if you have the cabbie drop you at your door. i.e. Drop me on the corner and its 7.50, drop me at the door; 20 Rand. Also, Namibians share taxis. There will usually be about 4 people in and out of the cab I get into to get to work in the morning. Cabs are always full and you look for the one with an empty seat. But don’t worry about flagging one. Every cab that passes you will always honk at you if you are walking, standing, or existing near the street. It is their way of asking you if you need a ride. But if they don’t want to go where you are going they will tell you to get out. Moreover, cabbies don’t actually know where they are going or most street names so you have to direct them. But there is not ‘left’ or ‘right’ in Namibia so you just have to use your hands and say ‘this way’ or ‘that way’. And say ‘stop’ about 5 minutes before you need to…. no joke. Then they drive up on the sidewalk and off the street to let you out. But know what you should be paying because they will screw you.
Word Changes: when answering a ‘how are you’ question, answer “Fine” because to say “Good” doesn’t translate right. On that same note, never ask ‘CAN I have that’ or CAN I do that for you’. If you ask with can, no one will understand you. Compliments you may receive: 'Your cheeks are full!' or 'Your smile has the holy spirit in it!'. There are 5 main languages in Namibia, all spoken in the Capital, so if you’re game, learn the basics of all of them. Traffic lights are “Robots”, when you look tired you are “Bushed”, no one is shy about swearing, even in business or if they have just met you. You should be honored if you get a Namibian handshake which is a little more complicated then a regular one (I’ve only gotten two). When it is 85 Fahrenheit Namibians will be seen in winter parkers and hats, nothing shorter than your knees for trousers (it’s British English by the way) and sunglasses suggest tourist.
Finally, when eating…be brave. Any meat you get is hunted game and there is never a boneless cut of meat. Most use their hands and its expected that you eat the bones as well. You’ll be munching on those for a while. The special meal made just for me? A BushMan's Kebab which is made up of Zebra, Oryx, Ostrich, Springbok, and Crocodile with milk DIRECTLY from a cow (chunks and all).
But its only been a week right?

Start With A Bang

Wa lalapo!

By popular demand I have decided to start up a blog for a bunch of reasons.

My adoring fans
My frantic family
My own pleasure
For the benefit of H.I.S.A.
I figured I’d start of with what I learned in my first-hell-week-crash-course-what-am-I-doing time so far in Namibia. I have never wondered why one of my most popular nick-names in life is Murphy. Because if you have ever met me you know that Murphy’s Law applies three fold with me. Specifically: Whatever can go wrong…. will go wrong. Therefore it should be no surprise that the start of this trip was disastrous. The flight from Boston to NY? I don’t know how it was cause I slept the whole time. NY to Dubai: shoot me in the face. First of all, My TV thing is broken and it’s a completely full flight so there is nothing they can do to help. So I got to watch others watch whatever movies they wanted for 12 hours while my life began to deteriorate. The guy next to me is that guy on the plane who is obnoxiously loud on their cell phone till the last possible second. (The conversation was my neighbor telling someone on the phone that he wasn’t going to make a deal with him and even thou he was going with the mans ex-partner who had stabbed the guy in the back to make the deal he “was still a good person and that’s what matters in the long run”). Then the flight takes off. 2 hours in the kid behind this man starts kicking the seat, irritating all three of is in front of him but mostly my new friend. His wife in the window seat has already gotten drunk because she’s afraid of flying and has begun to sing throaty Indian music and is not trying to be quiet at all. The man starts talking to me and eventually we come across the face that I am a Human Rights and Political Science major. BIG MISTAKE! He then proceeds to lecture/yell at me about how my life’s pursuit was a lie and a joke. How I shouldn’t rock the boat and that I’m just another one of those “young idealistic western women” who think they can change the world. Now he’s pushed the wrong button and we get into a heated discussion until his drunken wife passes out on the tray and knocks her red wine all over our laps and trays. I should just get to sleep right? Wrong. Every time I tried to put my seat back even a little the man behind me would complain till I put it back up. Somehow that flight ended and I’m left in the Dubai Airport cranky, hungry, sleepy, and moody. But I have a two-hour layover and I am really excited to get food and my last cup of Dunkin Donuts Coffee (there’s randomly one in Dubai). UNFORTUNATLY, since the US Dollar is terrible right now no one is taking it anymore. So I had nothing but 20 bucks and South African Rand. But its only two hours right? Wrong again. The flight is delayed two hours after we get on board and then they make us get off and get on another plane. 3 hours into that flight the flight attendants are serving food and we hit turbulence. Long story short; I had coffee spilt all over me.

The silver lining in this whole debacle was that the attendant felt so badly she moved me up to business class! But there wasn’t that much to enjoy because the second I sat down, I finally fell asleep.

It was a long two days